The Longest Day
This is the longest day I’ve ever experienced. It clocks in at about 50hours.
I got up went to 711 for some amazing cookies. I took a taxi to Khao San road. I went into this cool bookstore, Shaman Bookshop. Once there I bought some reading material. I got Mr. Nice and Politics of Heroin in South East Asia. In a way I felt like my books were contraband. I walked back and had breakfast late at the cafeteria. I had fried rice, chicken rice and a sprite. I spent some time reading Mr. Nice and playing on the internet.
Soon enough it was time for my taxi to the airport. Mr. Wan, my taxi driver from the other day was very punctual. I had to pay the tolls and didn’t give me any change. I wasn’t a fan of that. He wanted me to give him a USD to show his family. Unfortunately, I was just shy of dirt poor at this point. This experience highlights the Thai notion that farangs are ATM’s.
I checked in at China Air for flight CI836 Bangkok to Taipei. I made it through to fast. I got through and checked in in what seemed like seconds. One of the security personal asked me to prove it was contact solution so I squirted it in his eye. He was a bit shocked.
I wandered around the duty free stores and cafes. I picked up coupons and free samples trying to waste time. There is a lot of crap people will pay money for. My gate got changed and the lounge for that gate wasn’t open yet. I was fascinated to see they had a muslim prayer room. I honestly think that’s the first time I saw one. I spent most of my time reading and waiting.
I rode the plane to Taipei and made my transfer. I took the skytrain across the airport and went through a second customs check. I waited in the D4 lobby and got on CI8 to Los Angeles. Once at LA, I was met by my mom and Noemi. It was good to be home. Unfortunately, I had work in the morning. Then in a couple days, Yosemite.
In my eyes, you keep moving or you die. Until the next adventure.
Koh Si Chang
More bad dreams. I grabbed breakfast at the hotel and checked out. I walked through the big park and onto Koh Loi. It’s a small island connected by a landbridge. There were seafood stands and a market. I checked out the Thai Chinese Buddhist Temple. Then I grabbed a boat to Ko Si Chang. This boat made me think it was run by Sea Gypsies.
Once on the island I walked around and was harassed by too many people. I went and saw Jan Jao Kha Yai Chinese Temple, the Seaview, some random buildings, and Rama V’s Palace. I was especially amused by the “Rabies Free Zone” signs. There was a couple getting married at the palace and the place had an interesting history. Koh Si Chang was opposite most of the islands I’ve been to. From there I went to the Ocean Research Institute and the beach. The beach was resort-ish and lots of people were swimming in their clothes. It was small and overpopulated. Supposedly this was the only beach on Koh Si Chang. From there I went to Pan and David Restaurant. I had the spicy chicken with mint phlaa. It was a brutal building fire followed by a snotty burning feeling. As disturbing as that sounds it was really good. I followed it up with a maple pecan ice cream. I headed back to the pier and took a boat back to the mainland. I was surprised by the ladyboy selling tickets. It was the first time I was surprised by a ladyboy. I feel that the exaggerations of people being surprised are just that. I’m also of the opinion these blokes are looking for it and get caught.
I took a tuk tuk to Robinson’s to look for some books. It was my first mall experience and it was overwhelming. I was unable to find it so I grabbed another tuk tuk. This woman was retarded. She drove me out in the middle of nowhere and ditched me. Dumb inbred bitch. I was finally able to hail a motorbike cab with the help of some locals. A couple of cute Thai girls wished me luck and I was on my way. I made it to Sriracha Tours and got a ticket to Ekamai. I was on a bus to Bangkok and they were being rigid with the assigned seating. If one person fucks it up, it all goes to hell. Once back I tried looking for the book again and was unable to find it. I saw a party taxi truck driving down the street. I saw a Sizzler. Yes, that Sizzler. Another taxi driver tried to scam me but luckily I got one to 3J. I arranged him to pick me up tomorrow afternoon. He seemed like a decent guy. I repacked my bags, figured out any last minute things, and passed the fuck out.
Home of the Spicy Sauce
I slept like crap and had some weird dreams.
Pen tried to come by early in the morning and I ignored her. It was fucking early. There was a weird good bye and the power went out. I got ready and had breakfast at the same place. Life here was getting routine. I walked around the lagoon and chatted with people. It was surreal. I felt like so many people were begging to be saved from the conditions of their birth. At least we all had one thing in common, we all want to be somewhere we’re not. I grabbed a taxi to the pier and the hopped on the ferry back to Trat. I took a taxi to the bus station then a minibus to Pattaya. I’m pretty sure the tickettaker was drunk and we kept randomly stopping for food. He was singing pop songs loudly. I did my best to make friends with the crew amidst reading and napping. I was dropped off on some random street.
Luckily, it wasn’t so random. The bus to Sri Racha came and I was off to the home of the spicy sauce. This bus was playing an O-Zone concert. For those of you that are unfamiliar they were made famous internationally by a meme as so often things are these days. I jumped off the bus, literally we did not stop in Sri Racha and I walked through this ridiculous auto show. There was neon and bass oozing out of every square inch of the plaza. I ended up finishing the Raw Shark Texts. I walked through a hospital on accident. The Sriwatana Hotel was basically a slum on a pier. The toilets were holes in the pier and the mattress was a putrid green and slumped awkwardly in the center. The Samchai Hotel had one of the rudest attendants I’ve ever dealt with. I’d say avoid it at all costs. Third one’s a charm, the Seaview Hotel was quite nice. I went over to the Pattaya Steakhouse and had a steak with spinach. Delicious.
Papasan
I went and had breakfast of shake and pancakes at the same restaurant. These people had become my Thai family. We motorbiked around. I saw some beaches and a crocodile farm. I played pool at a resort. I’m pretty sure most Thai are pool sharks. We stopped and talked with people. I was shocked to see how Thai view personal space. We definitely barged into Nolan’s hotel in the AM and I was surprised at how fine everyone was with it. We went to the beach and I pondered ideas of constructed nature. It was a lazy day. I read and climbed a coconut tree. I took a shower and then went off to KaTi for dessert. I had a coconut ice cream with banana fritters. It was divine. I popped into 711 and a market. They were selling women’s clothes and tasers… I went back to the restaurant that I’d been frequenting and had BBQ prawn, squid and crab. There was no electricity for a bit. I chatted with Nolan and they left. I ended up hanging out with Pen the travel agent and her Thai friends. We hung out and I bought 3 rounds for the equivalent of $3USD. They called me papasan and hoped I’d come back soon.
Snorkel
I woke up early and waited for pick up. I took a taxi to Bang Bao. It was time for my snorkel adventure aboard Perm Poon Sub. It rained a bit as we made our way out onto the water. Our first stop was Koh Yak Lak. We had a lunch buffet and snacks of fruit. After that we saw Koh Rang and Koh Thong Long. Then we were bombarded with more snacks of sweet potato and fruit. Then we stopped atKoh Wai. I met a polish couple, a Swede and Thai couple, and a Thai German women. At this point I was getting morbidly curious about the obvious motives of the people I encountered.
We got back to Koh Chang and I took a cab from Bang Bao to Ao Prang Kao and Blue Lagoon. I showered and met up at the restaurant I was at the night before. They had barbecued fish, prawn and pork. It was phenomenal. I was discovering that deet was becoming a deodorant of mine. I ended up enjoying the company of the same people as the night before. A gentleman Nolan and his Thai girlfriend were eating at the restaurant and I was introduced. We went to Sabay Bar to listen to music. I played pool with this Thai guy and he was a damn shark. As I was leaving Sabay, this petite gorgeous gal wraps around me and holds my hand. Lets me know her name is Kate and wants to come home with me. I was beyond bewildered and politely declined.
Koh Chang
I woke up to a cacophony of noise. There was no hot water. I packed and was bummed that Kool Corner was closed. I took a taxi to Laem Ngop Pier. This guy stopped to load up his truck and tried to tell me the last boat was at 10am. He wanted me to go to Lonely Beach. Fuck this guy. We made some random stops and finally get to the right pier. I bought my ticket and got shuttled to the end of the dock. There was a German with a Long Beach shirt. He was a chill guy. I ate peanut butter and chocolate oreos. So goddamn good. I hopped onto the ferry to Koh Chang. I didn’t even realize we were moving it was so slow and smooth. I learned a trick, sit on the Thai side of transport. You’ll be more comfortable and cool that way.
I grabbed a taxi and met some Swedes. A road had collapsed and caused traffic. I got to the Blue Lagoon Hostel. I got a decent room/bungalow on the water, I chatted with a guy about technology and how the world is so much more immediate than it used to be. I ate at the hotel restaurant and ordered Kao Soy with a coconut mango shake. There’s a reason this place is a nationally recognized cooking school. I took a glorious shower and finished Perdido Street Station. I really would love to become a full time backpacker, or at least a year.
I went and booked 4 islands worth of snorkeling for the next day. Koh Yak Lak, Koh Rang, Koh Thong Lang, and Koh Wai were all on the agenda. While I was at the booking office this creepy cheesy Irishman came in. We was flirting with the mom and daughter who ran the booking office. I found it slightly offensive and distasteful. They seemed to take it for the sake of business. Who knows, maybe that’s just how things work. Is this simply just a sugar daddy system run amok?
I went into town and saw drunken tourists ride the mechanical bull at Buffalo Bills. I stopped into Thor’s Palace which was literally beach front. The water was lapping up against the wall where my table was.A man came over who I assume is Thor, he was soft spoken and effeminate. This man basically demanded I order the seafood pizza. I was glad I did. The restaurant had lounge versions of popular songs playing in the background. I was starting to get homesick for food. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve never been upset with the food here. It’s always been amazing.
As I continued my wonder I came across a monkey on a leash with a mohawk. Ladies stopped me in the street and commented on my hair. Gogo girls would pause and wave. At this point I was significantly jaded. I trusted very few interactions with people here. I found most wanted something and more often than not it was cash. As it was getting dark I grabbed a taxi back. The nightlife was starting to emerge under a red sun. It was all gogo bars and abject poverty.
I stopped at Maj’s which was next to the women and travel agency I booked with earlier. I had a fruit shake and ice cream. I evaded the nightlife as I was avoiding it’s ritual, drink. I stayed and made friends with this Thai family. A Japenese and Thai couple were very friendly and we got along lovely. I was force fed pineapple juice, iced tea, and green curry. I felt a bit ill and had to make a run for it. As I was feeling sick the rain came down hard, fast, and heavy.
Full Moon
I grabbed breakfast and snacks. The islands are expensive. There was still no word about my wallet from any of the police or shopkeeps. However, I did get to witness a tourist robber get nailed. He had a bag full of phones, purses, and money. I went to Leela’s beach. It was lovely. Then I walked down to the lighthouse and to Cocohuts. I talked to an Aussie Diver and he was a riot. I’d loved to have gone diving out there. I used the internet. I had to have my lock sawed off since my wallet disappeared. I bought some souvernirs and ate a chicken pita at the Chicken Corner. I went down to Haat Rin Beach and chilled. I watched people set up, met and chatted with a whole slew of kids. I went to Same Same Burger and grabbed a cheeseburger, fries, and a Diet Coke. It was so good and so overpriced. This island is great at Western food. I had an M150 Storm Energy drink as a pick me up. I thought of how amazing it’d be to sail the world. I could live on an island or a Thai island for a bit. I hung out and went with some people from the hostel next door. We cruised the shops and pregamed. We painted our bodies and went out for the full moon party.
Once at the Full Moon Party we bounced between different stages. I was out until dawn and a bunch of people bailed before then. By the end only 2 bars were left. I got breakfast and some guy tried to beg me for money. Then there was one bar left. I was harassed so I went for a swim. I danced for 18hrs at this point. I met a guy from Shetfield. I ran into a few people but most were still asleep at this point. I surfed the web for a smidge and then took a nap. I slept until the evening. I watched the Beach with the crew and then slept again.
On to Koh Pha Ngan
I started the day by reading Perdido Street Station and packing for the islands. I lounged about and grabbed snacks. I had Dom Yam with Spicy Noodle Soup man. The plan at the time was to try and cruise south but if the bus prevents it then I’ll head southeast. I went for a walk about. I walked down Khao San during the day and it’s completely different. I grabbed Muay Thai shorts for my buddy Vy.
I got lost and wandered into a street market. I saw the amulet trade first hand. It was extensive and expensive. I saw a small one go for 10k B. I saw the Bangkok City Pillar Shrine. I got screwed out of some cash for more medical expenses. I got confused trying to get into the Grand Palace. I checked out the art at the Slipakorn Institute and saw Wat Pho. I evaded the ticket counter. I walked through another street market and picked up gifts for friends. I found the book I would bring back as part of the scavenger hunt a friend gave me. I found the knife a friend asked me for. I giggled to myself about how I’m going to tell him I misheard and got him a wife instead.
I took the ferry from Thamasaat and went to BBQ and Crepe Lady. I ate while cruising the web and finished packing. We all walked over to the travel agency. I ended up chatting with Audry who was a fellow anthro major and also did archaeology in Peru. I giggled at some of the shirts we saw. “Work for a living. Drink for life”
A guide popped out of nowhere and led us down a maze of streets and back alley corridors. We met a bus. I sat with Brin and chatted with 2 English blokes. They happened to be teaching here and enjoying it.
We drove through the night and stopped for food. I ate crappy snack food. Then it was back on the bus until we got to the ferry stop. We waited there and I found some OJ that didn’t taste like tang. Gods be praised. We got on the ferry and I had a delicious sandwich. We passed huts avoce the water and random islands. We made a quick stop on Ko Samui and then finally go to Koh Pha Ngan.
Once there we were gouged (read raped) by the taxi driver. We got Jaya Dormitory and then hit the beach. It was glorious. I got my wallet jacked but it was only 300B. Fuck it, worse things can happen. I cruised the street and ran into some people. We stopped at D’s Bookstore and Cafe. I watched the sunset and people set up. I finally got around to grabbing food. We met up in the dorms and went down to the beach were it slowly evolved into a party. There were 3 stages with different music and lots of dancing. The fire shows and fire games erupted at random. There was dancing on tables for most of the night.
Back to BKK
I got up early. I was feeling good and considering how I could make the gym apart of my wake up routine when I get back. I had breakfast at the hotel. I’ve noticed that on this trip it has been feast or famine with my eating. I packed up and took one last look out over the greenery.
I went for a morning walk and saw a man with a rifle on the bridge. He had his eye in the scope and was shooting some game. It was a jarring sight. I made one last stop at Baan Unrak Bakery. I had a chocolate filled pastry and a cheese roll. The pastry was divine and this was the first time I encountered cheese in Thailand. Heaven. I had a sausage roll and it seemed lacking. Then I finished it off with some quality apple pie. Yes, I am a fatty. I considered if maybe it’d be possible to create an internship through the UCEAP to get people out here to help. A kid with a ghettoblaster drove by on his motorbike and disrupted that thought.
I went on my way and petted the dogs. On another note, damn near all the cats I encountered had eyebrows and looked hilariously smug. I walked into town and grabbed a couple of shirts from the Camo Shop and then waited at the minibus stop. I was having a terrible time saying place names, my newest trouble was with Koh Pha Ngan. I watched Blow on the way back. We passed through some heavy border checks. A tree fell into the middle of the road but I made it to my connection without much trouble. I got back into Bangkok and walked to 3J apartments. I had some street food and relaxed in the lobby using the wifi. I was exhausted. I ended up dropping into the 3J cafe for rice, chicken, french fries, and some soy milk. I watched American History X. I ran into Sarah back at the apartment and she had a paper to do. I fell asleep reading.
